Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
